How Kim Jones is revolutionising Dior Men
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By Hannah Schmidt-Rees
It's only recently that I've started to love the latest Dior Men's collections. From their Spring 2019 collection, I've loved every one released since. Not saying that every other collection before was bad, I do have a few pieces that I love from previous collections, it was just, eh. I've said it before and I'll say it again; menswear needs to push more boundaries and expand its horizons; I don’t want see anymore runways full of black suits. I wasn't aware of why I suddenly liked Dior's latest men's collections, until I found out that Kim Jones became the new artistic director for Dior Men, as of March 19, 2018. The introduction of a new artistic director for a luxury fashion house can be the make or break for its future. And in my opinion, the decision to choose Kim Jones for Dior Men is one of the best made for the Dior brand.
Born in London in 1973, Jones began his interest in fashion through inheriting old stacks of The Face and i-D from his older sister when she moved out of the family home. Discovering indie British press in the 80's and 90's, Jones then immersed himself in the local scene; the music, social life and of course, the fashion. This early appreciation in art is reflected in Jones’ personal archive of artistic pieces, including; work by designer Leigh Bowery, Vivienne Westwood’s ‘Seditionaries’ and avant-garde pieces by Christopher Nemeth. Studying graphics and photography before completing the MA Fashion Design course in menswear at Central Saint Martins, Jones graduated in 2002. John Galliano (who was creative director for Dior at the time) bought half of his graduate collection and in the next 10 years, Jones would collaborate with multiple popular brands, including; British sportswear brand Umbro, Alexander McQueen and Kanye West for his pre-Yeezy brand Pastelle.
Choosing to study menswear design only to create clothing for himself and his friends, it wasn't until Michael Kopelman (distributor of Gimme Five) showed him the streetwear of Japanese designers Jun Takahashi (you can read more about him here), Nigo and Hiroshi Fujiwara that Jones' focus on menswear become serious. "Japanese streetwear can be simultaneously forward-looking and devoted to tradition, and it often involves taking a common garment - a pair of motorcycle jeans, a military parka or a classic crew-neck sweatshirt - and refining its craftsmanship to the point of fanaticism." says Jones. From that point, Jones created his own eponymous label, designing for himself between 2003 and 2008 and creating a cult following for his edgy, streetwear inspired looks.
In the current fashion world, the impact of social media has led to the younger generations having a higher interest in street style and high fashion. From a luxury brand's perspective, the younger generation is an incredibly profitable market to appeal to, both in monetary profit and brand awareness. In order for luxury brands to continue growing in the 21st century, they need to appeal to the younger market. Kim Jones' knowledge of current trends, classic tailoring and understanding the wants of the younger fashion consumer makes him a perfect artistic director to meld luxury fashion with the streetstyle-savvy youth of today. Named the new artistic director for men's ready-to-wear for Louis Vuitton in 2011, Jones is responsible for the increased brand visibility through his introduction of streetwear inspired looks. His crowning moment however, was the major success of the 2017 Fall collaboration collection between Louis Vuitton and skatewear brand Supreme. A collection that set the internet and the entirety of 'hypebeast' culture alight. It was one of the biggest collaborations in fashion history. It forever changed menswear and the connection between luxury fashion and streetwear.
But why do I like Kim Jones' Dior so much? Well, let me break down his past three collections for you.
Let's start with his first collection; Spring 2019.
For his first collection, Jones turned to the Dior archive for inspiration. Christian Dior was known for; his skill with elegant women's couture, his love for flowers, interior design, art and his dogs; aspects which were all referenced in the Spring collection. Towering over the crowd stood a 10 metre high sculpture by US artist KAWS, made up of 70,000 flowers and representing Christian Dior and his dog Bobby. Floral prints matched Christian Dior's personal porcelain set, light pearl tones mirrored the colours used in the upholstery of Christian Dior's first boutique.
Compared to Dior Men's previous collection (under the artistic direction of Kris van Assche), Jones' Dior Man isn't afraid to embrace the feminine couture side of high fashion. "I'd call it romantic, rather than feminine." says Jones, "translating a quintessentially feminine couture identity into a masculine idiom." as written on the show notes. Pastel suits combine structured shoulders and slim waists. The iconic Saddle bag was remade for men for the first time, turned into backpacks and cross-body bags. Floral prints were covered by transparent vinyl jackets. Pinks, greys and white graced the runway, bringing a light and youthful feeling with them. Embroidered tulle shirts were covered by organza, soft pastel pinks contrasting with navy blues. It fits into the idea that men's fashion doesn't need to be 'macho' to be taken seriously anymore, right? That's probably one of the reason why I love Kim Jones' work for Dior, he's loosening the constraints on men's fashion.
Then, his Pre Fall 2019 collection (my favourite so far).
Taking Dior to Tokyo, Jones embraced a sleek cyberpunk aesthetic for his second collection. Collaborating with Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama, a 12 metre high statue of a silver fem-bot (based off Sorayama's work) stood in the middle of the runway, a sci-fi homage to Christian Dior's adoration of the female body. Hajime Sorayama is known for his 80s style sexually suggestive depictions of feminine cyborgs (explore his work here). Futuristic but traditional, classic tailoring merged with robotic touches and streetwear influences. The iconic saddle bag returned with a metallic twist, iridescent outwear reflected the light like a second skin, European suits emerged with Japanese kimono-style detailing and models adorned with robotic 'implants' on their skin.
I've seen the Dior Men Pre Fall ready-to-wear garments in person, and they're beautiful. I'm a sucker for the cyberpunk aesthetic, so the futuristic jewellery and industrial style belts really drew me in. What really caught my though, was the overall aesthetic of the garments. When looking through each piece (and taking my time, might I add), it didn't feel like I was exclusively looking at menswear. Silk shirts embroidered with cherry blossoms and graphic t-shirts and sneakers featuring beautiful art, it was like I was looking at a collection focused on creating beautiful, tailored pieces of art, not just clothing for men. If I wasn't a poor university student, I definitely would've spent way too much on that collection.
And now for the latest collection; Fall 2019.
With models standing still on a slowly moving conveyor belt instead of actually walking, it's clear that Jones wanted to take Dior in a completely new direction. There hasn't been a better example of the combination of a homage to tradition and an appeal to a new generation; incorporating the traditional Dior Men's businessman uniform with the beauty of Dior Women's haute couture. My favourite looks from the show? Multiple 'Oblique Suits' featuring a satin wrap-around. Attached to the inside of the lapel and crossed across the body, only to fall to the model's side, the modern cummerbund adding a sense of femininity and opulence to the traditional look. "That idea came from looking at the cut of a 1955 dress in the Dior archive, but I wanted it to have ease and elegance." says Jones.
On the same train of thought, Jones uses utilitarian references to add a masculine streetwear element to his traditional cuts and silhouettes. Sportswear inspired vests and black nylon harnessing adds a sense of current street style trends and S&M influences, helping Dior Men to appeal to the younger generations. Cool midnight blues contrast with the rich browns of animal print, matte fabric embracing satin detailing. Referencing Christian Dior's love for art, Jones collaborated with artist Raymond Pettibon to integrate entirely new artworks into prints, knits and embroideries.
What I love about Kim Jones' artistic direction at Dior Men is his ability to reference the past without failing to appeal to the future. His ability to take a concept and fully embrace it within a collection is something that I completely admire. It reminds of the work of my other favourite designers, like Thierry Mugler and Vivienne Westwood. I also have a deep admiration for designers that explore androgyny and bend the rules of gender in their garments. He's creating clothing with a purpose; a purpose to create art that still references the purpose of high fashion, but with the practical appeal to the current market. Art that simultaneously remembers its origins but is not afraid to push the boundaries of masculinity and the future.
God I can't wait to see his next collection (which is happening in the next few days!)