The Crows - The Work of Yohji Yamamoto
Born in 1943, Yohji Yamamoto is one of the most masterful Japanese designers of our time, most known for his avant-garde tailoring and unique design aesthetic. His unique oversized and drapey silhouettes and limited colour scheme have become his two most known qualities as a designer.
Graduating from Keio University in 1966 with a law degree, Yamamoto decided to give up his legal career in exchange for helping his mother with her dressmaking business in Shinjuku. Yamamoto realised that he didn’t want to “join the ordinary society.” As per his mothers request, Yamamoto then went on to study fashion design at Bunka Fashion College, completing his degree in 1969. After his graduation, Yamamoto received a prize to visit Paris for a year, but it was back in Japan where his voice as a designer was truly heard.
Yamamoto’s first debuted his brand Y’s in Tokyo in 1977, with his first few collection directly challenged the idea of gender, as he wanted to create men’s clothes for women. Apparently those who wore Yamamoto’s garments in Japan were called ‘crows’ because of how black and dramatic they looked. He then debuted in Paris in 1981 with a pret a porter collection. It was also at this point that Yamamoto began a relationship with other iconic Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, creator of Comme des Garcons.
In 2002, Yamamoto collaborated with Adidas to create the brand Y-3, which has still remained a popular brand. He’s also collaborated with other creatives; creating pearl jewellery pieces with Mikimoto, handbags with Hermes and on-stage outfits for Elton John.
The majority of his creations are made in black, which is described by Yamamoto as “modest and arrogant at the same time”. Some of work inspires a sense of playful, the way the material transforms when worn allows new shapes to be created. Yamamoto’s two brands; Yohji Yamamoto and Y’s are stocked in high-end department stores, collectively making over $100 million in sales in 2007. Yamamoto has won multiple awards for his contributions to fashion, including; the Chevalier of Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, the Medal of Honour, the Royal Designer for Industry and the Master of Design award by Fashion Group International.
He has always been fascinated by the relationship between Western couture and Japanese customs. One of his most iconic and enchanting runways was his SS99 wedding themed show. The show combined the etherial and romantic nature of high fashion with the pageantry and ritualistic nature of a wedding. Every outfit transformed, as black suits turned to strapless gowns. The fabric was worn, adding a sense of history and contrasting from the pristine white of wedding gowns. As each garment transformed, the crowd cheered and watched in amusement, some even being brought to tears. Watch it below:
“I think that my men’s clothes look as good on women as my women’s clothing. When I started designing, I wanted to make men’s clothes for women. When I started making clothes for my line Y’s in 1977, all I wanted was for women to wear men’s clothes. I jumped on the idea of designing coats for women. It meant something to me – the idea of a coat guarding and hiding a woman’s body. I wanted to protect.”
Yohji Yamamoto is one of my favourite designers. I first discovered him when I was in Japan, and purchased two of his garments from his brand Ground Y in LaForet in Harajuku. As a former goth and a lover of androgynous fashion, Yamamoto’s aesthetic is perfect for me. I love draping fabric and unique silhouettes, all in black to add a sense of drama.
“In my philosophy, the word androgyny doesn’t have any meaning. I think there is no difference between men and women. We are different in body, but sense, spirit and soul are the same.”